Encountering the Warrior

Warrior, of the Huli people in Papua New Guinea.

On an afternoon trip from Ambua Lodge to a nearby roost site of a sooty owl, our birding group got its first encounter with a member of the local Huli people. The roost site was in a cavity in a tall eucalyptus-like tree in the middle of some hand-planted crop fields.

I wish I had photos of our initial moments with the man I came to know simply as Warrior. He was a Huli wigman who appeared in the middle of the road as we were trying to execute a too-tight turn in our combi-bus. He initially waved and smiled, and beckoned us to drive after him down the road. He was running barefoot down the road in front of us, feathered headdress waving with his movement, a bundle of leaves covering his backside.

That's Warrior on the right, walking in front of our bus.

As our bus started to follow him, he suddenly whirled, notched and arrow and aimed it at us through the windshield. I must admit that I jumped and dodged behind the seat back in front of me. A palpable surge of momentary fear had gone through our group. And just as quickly, the man smiled and laughed, turning to resume his trot down the road.

Fewer than 100 yards later, a washed out bridge prevented our further progress, so we dismounted and continued on foot. The wigman immediately came up to me to show me his bow and arrows. I was fascinated, and he could tell. Our conversation went like this:

"I sell you all 75 kina!" he said.
"No thanks. Please tell me your name!"
"Warrior!"
"Is that really your name?"
"Yes, I warrior. What name bilong you?"
"My name is Bill."
"Beel! My fren!"

Warrior tried once or twice more to sell me his arrows, but each time I politely declined and asked him another question. Despite our language difficulty—he did not speak much English and I could only discern certain phrases in Pidgen, the language most common in Papua New Guinea, a mash-up of English, German, and various local tongues—we learned a lot about each other. The land where we were going to find the sooty owl was owned by him and his clan. He did some farming, but mostly hunting and guiding people. I asked him is this was how he dressed every day, and he confirmed it. Looking closely at his headdress, I could see cassowary feathers, two sulphur-crested cockatoo feathers, fresh plant stems and leaves, and a carefully folded and pinned-in-place label from a food product. A long tan reed was centered beneath the tip of his nose, inserted through a hole in his septum. Elaborate patterns were painted on his face in red, yellow, and black.


We'd be instructed to ask for permission to take photographs of the people we would encounter—this is only common courtesy after all. But we'd also been asked/advised not to pay money for this privilege, since PNG is trying to maintain a spirit of friendly hospitality for visiting tourists. The concern being that if every photo-taking tourist is made to pay to take photographs, the local culture and customs could devolve into mercenary commerce, opening the door to more of the problems caused by so-called "rascals" who commit crimes against tourists and travelers.

It can be a rare thing to enjoy an authentic encounter with someone native to a country you are visiting. Sometimes a place and its people are so inured to tourists that they have little interest in answering the same handful of questions from yet another busload of visitors ("Do you really live here? What do you eat? Did you make that yourself?"). Or, and this is becoming much less common in our modern world, you visit a place where few outsiders go and the people are very shy and reticent. Either way, it can be difficult to get an authentic feel for the people and place.
Waiting for the owl.

I suspect that Warrior could easily rev-up his guiding "act" for a bunch of oblivious tourists. He shot several bamboo "arrows" for us—at a cloud, at a distant tree. He did not shoot any of the more finely made arrows he held in his hand. As we walked along, talking, he seemed to enjoy getting to know me as much as I did him.

We crossed through a farmyard and over a series of creeks, then through planted fields, trying our best to avoid stepping on the vines of the plants growing from the ground. Once at the roost site, one of the local men went forward and used a 30-foot long pole to scratch the side of the tree. This was meant to get the owl to peek outside, which it did. But the owl was startled enough from his daytime slumber that it flew off to a nearby copse of trees.

The roost tree, with the cavity (on the upper left fork)

I had been videotaping the tree scratching, but when the owl peeked out I went for my binoculars and completely missed getting any shots or footage.
After-owl group photo with the local family and our guides.

Our group posed for some photos with the local family and our guides at the owl roost.

The farmer, including Warrior, are paid a fee each time a group of bird watchers visits. This is an excellent example of grassroots ecotourism. The local villagers know that by protecting the owl and its roost tree, they can earn money from visiting groups. We discussed ways to show the owl without spooking it from its roost, and the local folks assured us that the owl usually peeks out for a minute or so and then goes back down inside the cavity to sleep.
Walking through the cultivated fields.

On our way back to the road it began to rain quite heavily. Within minutes we were all soaked through and getting chilled. At the road, we parted company with Warrior and his family. I did buy an arrow from him and he told me about how he made it. He made a slit along one side of the arrow shaft. Into this shaft he inserted some small seeds. He told me that when this arrow goes into his enemy, those seeds will make it hurt more. Knowing how intense the fighting can be among rival clans in PNG, I did not doubt Warrior's sincerity or intent.

The arrow's construction was ingenious. It was designed to come apart mid-shaft. And it was beautifully carved and decorated with paint. The balance was perfect and though I will never shoot it from a bow, I am sure it would fly straight and true.

Before we left Warrior and his family I asked if I could take his photograph.

"Yes, Beel, you my friend! Take photo!"
Warrior posed for me to take his photo.

I did and we shook hands and turned to go our separate ways returning to our separate and very different worlds. I'm not sure Warrior will remember me, but each time I look at the red arrow, I surely remember him.

That's me with my arrow, wearing one of the traditional hats worn in PNG. This one is woven in the colors of the national flag.
 

Hand in (Fur) Pocket

With Black Friday and Saturday having gone by, it was time to face reality:  there remained less than a quarter of a roll of toilet paper, zero razors and my deodorant was dangerously low meaning I'd have to leave the house (curses for not planning ahead). Of course that entails combing one's hair and, in the spirit of 45 degrees, donning something warm.  How does one recover from 4 days of sheer nothing? Go big and leave home in a fur coat to traipse about completing mundane tasks while strangers in the local neighborhood give odd sideways glances at your moderately overdone Sunday attire as you prep for operation buzzkill aka Monday morning by leaving your beloved sweats, UGGs and fuzzy sweaters behind.

Hmmmm I think I'll have a snack to go with all those other
snacks I've been consuming for days.  
Panic sets in as it dawns on me that Christmas is less than 
a month away and I have approximately zero gifts.
Suddenly I'm considering giving everyone I know coffee beans.
Yaaaaaaaawn.  Do I have to get that tp?  Don't I have some kleenex in my bag?
I stare listlessly into the tea as it steeps.  
All I know is this coat is fuzzy and warm, and the sleeve detailing is wonderful.
None of this, however, preps me to re-enter shopping crowds.
Check that woman tossin' elbows as she runs in the door at Target.
You know she threw someone to the ground like a rag doll for 
a 99 cent toaster oven left over from Friday.
I am happy to escape with just a tp purse (nifty catch phrase I came up with for
that little handle thing they attach...it always gets a smile from the Target ladies).
Joyriding around in the newfound "outdoors" (aka staying OFF the freeway) 
I spot a pink Cadillac and follow it around for 5 miles 
to ensure it is what I think it is...
Hells bells the recession hasn't hit everyone.  Mary Kay's selling like mad.
 
Next thing you know I come to, still in fur and chip in hand, at a fave
 local Mexican hangout.
The perfect end to a relaxing weekend.

Dear Monday:  Not now.

Outfit Details: Juicy Couture-Faux Fur Jacket, James Perse-Button-up, Juicy Couture-Riding Pants, Loeffler Randall-Boots, Foley+Corinna-Bag, Melinda Maria-Rings
 

No Justice on Black Friday



I just finished telling Nikki  and Taylor that Black Friday really isn't for me...and then accidentally stumbled upon the All Saints Rivo Sweater deciding maybe Black Friday isn't so bad after all - if you're shopping from bed.  After envisioning Rivo with leggings, military boots, and a shearling lined denim jacket, it turns out the sweater is, of course, sold out in my size.  Except for in Miami.  And All Saints doesn't ship from stores to customers.  *insert disappointment here*

Thankfully there are still 2.5 more days til Monday to recover while consuming all kinds leftovers.  Happy Weekend everyone!!  pssst - All Saints has 25% off right now!
 

With Gratitude

{Table is ready!}

Kind of a late post today, but I thought I would take some quality time to help the Chef get ready for Thanksgiving, and just lounge around enjoying snacks and relaxing.  In the past week I've had some time to think about the many blessings in my life like: 
  • A roof over my head
  • Clothes on my back
  • A refrigerator filled with food
  • Access to clean water
  • Family and friends that love and support me
  • A boyfriend that, truth be told, puts up with a lot from me (thanks Chef!)
  • A job that lets me work from home
  • 2 super cats (meow!)
  • Good health
  • Common sense 
  • A sound mind
I could go on, but these are the things that immediately come to mind as everyday blessings that I sometimes take for granted.  The sound mind one really hit home yesterday in Santa Monica after I had a lengthy conversation with someone who was clear out of his mind.  It was very sad and as I walked away I was so thankful for the ability to think straight and keep it together (even though half the time I feel like I might be losing it).    How is it that the things we are so accustomed to having daily are the things we overlook the most? 

On that, er, happy note I want to wish everyone here in the United States a very Happy Thanksgiving!! And to everyone else who might pop by in the meantime - Happy Weekend!! (in the event I go into a food & movie watching coma and don't resurface until Monday.  slight possibility)
 

White Pumpkin Ganache and Caramel Tart

I don't know about you, but I am ready for a few days off.  We are in full swing over here planning the menu for a special meal at home, as well as figuring out what to take for dinner invites we've received.  At one particular dinner party we are in charge of dessert, so last night spent the evening whipping up a couple "samples" to make sure they would pass expectations.  Upon completion I announced, "I think we might be coming down with something and unable to attend" aka do we have to share? I mean dessert is a well-balanced meal as far as I'm concerned.  (Diet respite for Thanksgiving, although overeating is not in the plans...then again you can never tell!)

White Pumpkin Ganache and Caramel Tart
Ingredients: Makes (4) 3.5 inch Mini Tarts

*Crust
1/2C  flour (gluten-free blend here)
1/4C  butter
1/4t    salt
1t       cold water

Method

Crust:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
You can use a bought pie crust if you'd like, but you won't need all of it.  I quickly whipped up some homemade crust using my gluten-free flour blend and it was easy and awesome.  For the sake of ease, we just stuck to regular flour for the recipe.

 Begin by combining flour and salt. 
 Using a pastry cutter or fork to mash it until you get a crumbly texture
and then mix the remainder by hand...
to form it into a ball. *You may need to add a bit of water 
to form a ball, but I didn't.

Place the dough into the refrigerator to chill for 20 minutes.  Once chilled roll and press into tart pans. 

 Bake shell in 350 degree oven for 12-15 minutes until golden brown.

*Caramel 
1/2C sugar
1/2C water
3T butter
3T heavy cream
1t salt

Method:
Mix sugar and water bring to a boil and let boil until sugar begins to brown (do not touch or stir as this will cause it to recrystalize). Once sugar is a light brown remove from heat and add the cream (be careful it is very hot and will splatter).  When you add the cream it will start to harden - just whisk it until incorporated.  Then stir in the butter and salt. Let rest in pot.

*White Chocolate and Pumpkin Ganache
1/3C canned pumpkin(plain)
2/3C white chocolate chips
1/3C heavy cream

Method:
Place chocolate in a bowl.  Bring cream to a boil.  Once boiling pour all the cream over the chocolate and stir slowly until smooth.  Then fold in the pumpkin, and hold in a warm place.

To finish:
Pour caramel into each tart shell to completely coat the bottom.


Let chill in fridge until firm about - about 10 minutes.  Next pour ganache over to fill the shell.  Let chill again until firm - about 30 minutes.  Top with whip cream and serve. 


Don't let the shadows from making these by the light of the silvery moon 
fool you...they are good.  We have one left and I'm seriously 
contemplating tossing the diet to eat it for breakfast!

What are you guys making for Thanksgiving dessert?  I'd love to hear your family traditions and favorite recipes.  I'm wishing now that I would have done a recipe swap with all of you prior to Thanksgiving...maybe we can figure something out for December.  What do you think?
 

Lunatic Fringe

A few weeks ago you may recall the lament over my existential closet crisis that then spurred on a hippie phase.  You probably noticed the hippie phase lasted approximately one blog post because I realized my hippie clothes were all packed away from the summer we never had (and ps it was 43 degrees with the wind chill at 4pm yesterday!! WHAT?!?).  The realization that I possess zero winter hippie attire - and am not even sure what that would consist of - led me to a foreign land I've spoken of, but never before braved due to sheer fear of looking like a deer in the headlights:  Vintage. 

To reiterate:  I have roughly zero ideas about vintage.  When she was in LA, Anna Jane and I had a deep conversation over lemonades regarding vintage, the summary of which was this:  "I think it's old crap" (figuratively speaking only, of course, because there is some majorly good old crap out there).  It could be a year old, 15 years old, someone's grandma's old thing, or maybe something new that has been run over by a car 140x so that it looks old and you can just be told it is and fall for it.  Anyway I wanted some legit old thing that looked like it came out of the maryjane tents at Woodstock or fell out of the back of an old turquoise VW Van like the one my favorite boss ever bought and restored for his hippie-esque daughter on her 16th birthday.

So off I headed to the internets (too scared to go to a store:  then I read Carey's account and realized major pain brings major gain) and after 2 days of searching off and on - during which time I almost gave up 700x - I found a treasure and placed a little bid to get the waters stirring.  And then I had to wait 3 days and come down to a bidding war in the last 30 seconds during which time I almost lost my one shot at winter hippieville to someone with an eBay handle of "backupoffit".  Famous last words to that person.  Sowee!

{wherever she is you know Pocahontas wants a piece of this}
 Fringe hem that hits the top of the boots with a swish when I walk...
the ladies at Sprouts were all a-swoon.  I wish I had some advice.
"Uh, eBay?"  met by blank.stare.
 I can't lie - I love it.  There wasn't an arm pit stain, a weird scent,
or a loose thread.  Check out the side slit!! If it was warmer outside
I'd have it on over ripped denim cut-offs and moccasins.
All I need is my trapper hat and some knee-high Minnetonkas and I'm set!
PANYC and Motif56 Bracelets, Brandy&Melville Fringe Bag, Banana Republic Suede Boots
Temperature: 43 degrees, Fringed Tunic:  VINTAGE!, Denim:  M+O (RIP),

If there were more hours in the day I'd be eyes glazed over staring at eBay, but I'm still working on "ward off muffin top 2010".  As well as work, clean the place up, do a load of laundry, read a book, finish watching the first Harry Potter movie and all the others before the weekend so I can take part in what is certainly going to go down as an iconic moment in pop-culture history (can you say late bloomer? and 'i've robbed myself?')...and then there's the Christmas/Holiday shopping.  *panic*

Is it Wednesday afternoon yet?  I taste caramel pumpkin tart.  
 

Free People for Wee People!

This weekend was so blustery, rainy and cold we could barely drag ourselves out of the house.  Saturday's whistling wind kept me under the covers until almost noon...too lazy (and freezing) to get out of bed and race down the hallway to turn up the heat.  Wind + rain + cold = perfect conditions for an internet shopping storm (did you see that Rebecca Taylor dress from Saturday's post?? help.me.now).  It's becoming increasingly difficult to ignore the fact that Christmas is around the corner, and I have approximately 2 gifts purchased. Eeps!

Rather than get too wound up swooning and crying over things no longer available in my size, I found myself shopping for my niece who is basically amazing and, at 5 years of age, already possessing a very unique sense of style.

 She's a little bit hippie (with a side of sparkly Doc Martens boot).
A whole lotta lovely.
 And can rock a self-chosen mix of animal prints 
better than any girl I know.
(leopard print juicy couture jacket c/o auntie carrie)
First day outfit and she threw on that jacket and the zebra flats fearlessly!! 
(swallows homesick lump in throat)

Her eclectic taste and love for things outside the regular rules of kid fashion led me straight to Free People's new Wee People line.  It is so fun and completely Free People-ish...I can't wait to pick up a few things.  Check out some of the items I'm eyeballing:

They're like mini boyfriend jeans!!
My niece is not so much a denim fan yet though :(
She does, however, LOVE fur!
Can you imagine this thrown over that T and jeans?
 Or how about the Thumbelina Sweater Coat to mix it up?
How adorable!!
She could swing this little Fringe Purse on over top...
Toss on her Metallic Clogs
and be off to school, gymnastics or a rad birthday party!!

Then again it IS winter in Canada so she may have to carry
those fabulous clogs along and put them on when she arrives.
But that's no problem.  She can still keep warm and 
in super style with these Wooly Mammoth Boots!!!
Karl Lagerfeld?  Are you out there?

I don't know about you, but I think Free People has knocked it out of the park with this new line.  It is almost entirely sold out.  My fingers are crossed for re-stocking within the next couple weeks so that a few treasures can be added just in time for Christmas.  If you have little girls to buy for take a hop over to their site and get ready to have some fun.  Giving gifts is fun as it is, but when you can really get creative for kids it's even better.

Happy Monday everyone!  Anyone done with Holiday shopping?  I'm almost afraid to ask...
 

Twinkle, Twinkle


 {holy mother of pearl}
Rebecca Taylor Twinkle Twinkle Dress
here at Tobi
on sale at Rebecca Taylor!!! (sold out of my size! *insert tears here*)

This dress is whispering 'New Year's Eve' and I'm trying to turn down the volume. If it doesn't stop raining soon, I'm going to have to hand my wallet and the computer over to the authorities (aka the Chef)....p.s. check out that cuff on her arm.  swoon
 

Birding in Papua New Guinea: Ribbon-tailed Astrapia


Let's go back to Papua New Guinea for a post or two, shall we? In the afternoon of our first full day afield, the weather waffled between cool/cloudy and sunny/warming. We birded along the Highlands Highway as well as along some forest trails. While we saw quite a few new species, and more individuals of species we'd already added to the list, the most notable encounter was a foraging immature male ribbon-tailed astrapia—our third bird-of-paradise of the day.

Young male ribbon-tailed astrapia.

This young male foraged on the fruits of a tree alongside the road, at about eye level. Though the light was weak, I managed to get a few images with my digiscoping rig. Adult females show a dark brown body, and long dark tail feathers. Adult males have long white tail streamers and a glossy all-black body.


You can see in my video below that this bird is starting to show some white in the tail feathers.



After enjoying the astrapia show, we headed back to Ambua Wilderness Lodge, where the sun finally came out in earnest. We relaxed on the front lawn, enjoying the view and chatting about what we'd seen and what we were hoping to see in the days ahead.

Ambua Lodge view.

Our first full day of birding in Papua New Guinea was coming to an end. And what an incredible experience it had been.

Next PNG post: seeking the sooty owl.
 

The Elusive Back Door

When I was in university a couple of my friends attended college in the US and we only got to see each other on winter and summer breaks.  These guys were super fun, and my girlfriends and I looked forward to their return trips home where they schooled us about life outside Canada and seemed so very worldly.  Randy and Kenny loved a good rave and after regular club scene hours where we'd rip it up to favorites like 'Jump Around' by House of Pain, they would drag us to these after hours places that looked like abandoned buildings.  I remember being a royal pain (read: scared nerd) the first time we walked up at 2am to dead silence and pounded on the door of some warehouse in the middle of nowhere, "There's no one in there you fools!  Let's go home!!" only to have the door mysteriously swing open revealing thundering music, blinding strobe lights, and hordes of sweaty dancers who weren't ready to retire for the night.  More than once we'd lose track of time only to wander out into broad daylight on Sunday morning and head straight to breakfast.  Ahhhhhh the good old days.

When the Chef pointed out a cool looking alley the other day all I saw was the door, and it immediately took me back to a time when it seemed so cool to gain access to a place reserved only for those in "the know". 
 
Juicy Couture Fur Vest, Zara Pleated Leather Skirt, J.Crew Thigh Highs
The SKIRT!!  I saw this thing over a month ago taking a quick spin 
through Zara.  Like a fool I thought I could come back and grab it. Gone
Thus began the quest...which was completed just the other night when 
my fave shopgirl snagged the LAST one from the window display just for me.
Whew!  Cue "The search is over, you've been with me all the while..."
This is pretty much the condition we'd be in rolling into that secret door.
Okay maybe a bit less chic...but the door didn't smell like joranvandersloot urine.
And it wasn't flanked by palm trees holding crumpled up Marlboro packages.
Uh, anyone use garbage cans anymore?
Before you knew it we'd be rolling back out, donning our shades and heading
off to some diner or pizza joint for breakfast.  Ohthestomachofthecollegestudent.
T Luxury Apparel T-Shirt, Marc Jacobs Shoes, J.Crew Thigh Highs
I'm apologizing now - you may see this skirt several more times in the near future.
Imagine with a grey chunky knit sweater and military boots.
How about with flats, a poufy blouse and a denim jacket thrown over?
The possibilities are endless...a woman wanted to toss me for it in the fitting room.
It was a narrow escape thanks to the workouts.
Here's to the rest of the week going by just as quickly as the past few days.
Happy Thursday everyone!
Woop Woop (that's my rave sound - ahahahaha)

 
 
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